Frequently Asked Questions

Question:

Are there any specific things to keep in mind when looking for a face lotion for very dry skin? Are there things in body lotions for dry body skin that wouldn't be a good idea to put on dry facial skin?

Answer:

When we recommend facial topicals we frequently use a term called "non-comedogenic". It essentially means that it is not supposed to cause acne. This unfortunately means different things to different people. Just because a facial moisturizer says non-comedogenic, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it is 100% free from causing acne. Some of our patients still "break-out" with these "acne-free" moisturizers. On the other hand I have seen patients use body moisturizers on their face and not break out. The bottom line is there are certain preservatives and fragrances that are kept out of topical medicines to give them less of a chance of causing a breakout, but it is more user-dependant then advertised.

Question:

What do you think of the new anti-aging ingredients like copper, argireline, and peptide-complexes? Any backup that they're effective? Also, would an anti-aging body lotion that has retinol or AHAs really make much of a difference in skin quality if used religiously or would the results be less than worth it?

Answer:

There are many different substances that have proven to be affective in "the lab", and have great promise in the future, but most of these don’t penetrate into the skin because of a poor delivery system or that it is not stable enough in the formula to remain active. You’ve mentioned a couple of them, but there is a great deal more, including: antioxidants (Vitamin A, C, and E), other amino acids, hyaluronic acids, and etc. that don’t have a lot of good scientific studies and may not work as well as promoted (eg. "Better than Botox?"). Retinols and AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are a different story. There are some good studies on these products, and there is proven collagen and textural skin improvements. They have been used mainly on the face for fine lines and wrinkles. Overall body improvement is another issue. It depends on what part of the body, and what you’re trying to improve. Fine textural changes and mild photo-damage, sure, but cellulite, dimpling from muscle wasting associated with age or skin "thinning", probably not.

Question:

What exactly makes a lotion or cream an effective one? Is there really a difference between a less-than-$10 drugstore lotion and a much pricier brand? I'm tired of spending lots of money on department store products to alleviate my dry skin. I go through so much of it it's starting to become an economic liability!

Answer:

A lot of companies have different product lines, which they market and sell to different levels of customer economics. The same company will sell a moisturizer to a grocery store, a "low priced" department store, a "high priced" department store and a spa or salon without much difference in the active ingredients or formula (except some perfumes and a fancier bottle). The reason for this is that there are people, believe it or not, that want to spend more money on the things they use on their skin, because they believe it’s better – most of the time it’s not. The difference for you is going to be the choice of vehicle. Thicker ointments and emollient creams are going to be better for you during a dry skin "flare", and lighter creams, not lotions, for maintenance in between flares.